Butte, Montana to Spokane, Washington

HOME....oooh so sweet.

We're looking out from our crow's nest on the 48th parallel with a backward view of the USA. There are so many memories of adventure and fond thoughts of super people circulating and distilling in each of us. The trip has become part of our beings. We are grateful for safe passage.

Final Odometer: 10141
States: Montana, Idaho, Washington  Total: 28
Countries: 2

From Rapid City, South Dakota to Butte, Montana

On the road again.....and no planned sights to see, but there were some sights that we couldn't avoid seeing.

Just a short distance outside of Rapid City, near Spearfish,  we were one of the first to come upon a truck on fire on the freeway. We gawked until the fire fighters arrived and then gawked some more as they emptied one foam filled truck and then another onto the fire. No one was injured, and fortunately, there was a nearby exit that kept the traffic moving.

Then, in mid-Montana we passed a man running along pushing a 3-wheeled baby jogger. He had a bright yellow 'coast-to-coast' sign on the stroller, and I was able to find his blog tonight, (thank you Google). Evidently, he started in Westport, Washington and is running to Georgia doing about a marathon worth of miles every day. He's Swedish and has done the run once before from the east coast to the west. He carries all of his supplies in the stroller.Wow!

We also passed a prairie dog town with a big sign reading "no shooting/prairie dog study area". The little guys must believe in "don't fence me in", because their burrows were both inside the study area and out.

I've been living with a no shopping rule for the entire trip, (there really is no extra space in the boxster). Today I snapped. We stopped at an intriguing second hand store in a teeny Montana town and found the most wonderful old galvanized steel watering cans; so I bought three. :) One fit in the trunk, one beneath my feet, and one in my lap. Just a few hundred miles to go...

Giving symmetry to our trip, here we are in Butte, with Tom Mulcahy. Dinner at the Uptown Cafe, across the street from the historic Finlen Hotel. Great stories, great fun.

Running Odometer: 9819
States: South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana  Total:  28
Countries:  2

Albert Lea, Minnesota to Rapid City, South Dakota

Driving all day in a straight line we finished off Minnesota and most of South Dakota, Sturgis...Deadwood...Wall. The prairies are strikingly beautiful today dressed in greens of every hue. The grasses look soft, velvety, mossy, a real prairie dog paradise. There's been rain, and that's left many areas of standing water, pools and ponds that are wetlands now, but will be sipped dry by the summer sun. We stop at Wall Drug, just because it's there. We're in earlyish. One long day to go and then home is a chip shot.

Running Odometer: 9261
States: Minnesota, South Dakota  Total:  28

Lansing, Michigan to Albert Lea, Minnesota

Lots of miles today and late getting off the road, but we are once again west of the Mississippi and that's the appropriate river bank for us. Sight seeing is no longer a goal. We are headed for home.

The highlight of our day was lunch in Wheaton, Illinois with Ram and Rani Ramaswamy. Rani treated us to crispy hot dosai with chutney and sambar. Delicious! The dosai is similar to a crepe, but thinner and more savory. We were honored to enjoy Rani's cooking. While we were together, the four of us gathered in front of the computer and visited with Vivek and Sophia via webcam. This is the first time all four grandparents have been together since Sophia was born and we all oohed and aahed  in unison over our darling baby. Thank you to Vivek's mom and dad for being such gracious hosts.

Running Odometer: 8708
States: Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota  Total:  28
Countries: 2

Niagara Falls, Ontario to Lansing, Michigan

Water, water, everywhere, which brings with it the threat of hypothermia.
We voyage on the Maid of the Mist, (which has been in operation since 1846), out into the Niagara basin. A hint of what is to come are the dark blue rain ponchos issued to each passenger. The boat putt-putts past American Falls and we feel some of its spray; then the boat heads to Horseshoe Falls and turns directly into the face of the waterfall and holds there....forever. The tour guide, speaking over the PA system, intones, "Ladies and gentlemen, this is Niagara Falls." Indeed. Being in such close proximity to this tremendous force of nature was very awe inspiring, BUT, also like standing in a cold, unrelenting shower.

Our second adventure is the Journey Behind the Falls. This time it's a bright yellow poncho. We are taken by elevator down the equivalent of 14 stories and then allowed to wander long concrete corridors that open to viewing platforms deep in the gorge, below the falls. The ponchos are a necessity, but standing in the splash zone is an option this time. The striking feature to me, is the thunderous roar.
Next stop is Niagara's Fury, a multi-media presentation which is inside a theater, so I'm suspicious when we are handed green ponchos. I ask if we're going to get wet and the answer is "just a little bit". We learn about the geology of the area culminating with a big screen shot of the waterfall complete with heavy mist descending on us from above.
Last stop is the White Water Walk, which is a boardwalk along the Niagara River. No ponchos, and the class 6 rapids are astounding.
Niagara Falls is a beautiful natural phenomenon. The area is surrounded by a lovely park, but it is bordered with a casino, a ferris wheel, a water park, Hard Rock Cafe and a Ripley's Believe It Or Not. WHY???

Running Odometer: 8048
States: Michigan  Total:  25
Countries: 2

Montreal, Quebec to Niagara Falls, Ontario

Today's scenery is wide expanses of green fields, an occasional smattering of trees and large tracts of range land. Compared to what we've seen in the past weeks, it's "pretty", not spectacular. We skim the outskirts of Toronto on an expressway. It's a city of 2.5 million, but we shoot right by. We can see the CN Tower, (the world's tallest free standing structure), in the distance. We pass over a finger of Lake Ontario....and it is indeed a 'great' lake as far as the eye can see.

Arriving in Niagara Falls we turn towards our hotel and see the American Falls portion of the cataract at the end of the street. It's enough to cause a double-take. We walk the viewing pathway and the mist in the air is refreshing and amazing that it's infused in the air even at this distance.
Rainbows come and go in the watery air. One makes a full-scale arc, framing completely American Falls, with the pot of gold somewhere under the water's depths.

Standing just at the verge of Horseshoe Falls where the water rushes over the edge I  feel like I'm going with it even though my feet are firmly on the pathway.
Our hotel balcony overlooks the spectacle of water and sound. We plan to leave the glass door open so we can fall asleep to the rush of the falls.

Running Odometer: 7718
States: 0  Total:  24
Countries:  2

Quebec City, Quebec to Montreal, Quebec

We are in the land of bonjour, bienvenue and au revoir, but this time we haven't left the continent. Old Quebec City looks just as if a cookie cutter piece has been dislodged from the side streets of Paris and set down along the St Lawrence River. This is the only walled city in the US and Canada.

We walk the Dufferin Terrace lined with cannons left over from the days when protection was critical. The terrace fronts the St Lawerence, above the Old Port. The Chateau Frontenac, a sister hotel to the Banff Springs Hotel, was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1893. It is an imposing chateau rising above the walkway like an enormous castle complete with turrets and a slanted copper roof, gone green. The narrow streets are populated by horse-drawn carriages, or caleches, offering journeys through the venerable city.

A funiculaire which has been in operation for 130 years takes us down to the Old Port. The track is 64 meters in length, dropping down 59 meters. Here we find old-world cobbled streets and the Place Royale, the oldest French settlement in North America.

The Citadelle of Quebec was built in 1820 to secure the area against the Americans. It was used in more modern times as a meeting place for Churchill and FDR during the second world war. It is still in use as a military installation by the Canadian armed forces. To enter the fortress we travel a narrow walled drive that we cannot move into until the light turns green, as it is the only path in and out and is one car at a time, one way at a time.

Downtown Montreal is sleek, clean and modern; but we head into the old city near the quais where we enjoy the Basilica of Notre Dame and the Rue Saint Paul and savor a delicious Mother's Day dinner, (they have lobster in Montreal).

As we take the exit to our hotel, a rusty red fox scoots in front of the car reminding us that we are not far from the wilds of Canada.

Happy Mother's Day to all my 'Mom' friends and family; especially to the mother's of the singularly exceptional Sean, Anna, and Sophia.

Running Odometer: 7259
States: 0 Total:  24
Countries:  2

Bar Harbor, Maine to Quebec City, Quebec

We were alerted to the sunrise by a cacophony of gulls and terns, and were grateful for the wake-up call. Thanks to the birds, we were up and out early enough to hear the buoys rocking and chiming and the foghorns off in the distance.

Acadia National Park is a next door neighbor to Bar Harbor. The park is on Mount Desert Island and is a commanding combination of beaches, meadows and mountains where larch, hemlock, cottonwood and yellow birch create a texture of leaves, needles and colors. We hike the Ocean Cliffs Trail and stop at Thunder Hole, a small cavern in the rocky shore where waves force air out of the hole in a thunderous roar. As we walk, we look out towards the Cranberry Islands, and admire the colossal slabs of granite strewn with abandon along the shore. They are painted with a thin patina of lime green moss.

The Wild Gardens of Acadia, within the park, is a specimen garden created by the Bar Harbor garden club. They have collected flora from throughout the park, and arranged it in categories, (beach, meadow, mountain), along a winding pathway. The plants are all labeled for easy identification.

As we leave the park there are two deer standing just off the road. We stop, roll down the window and advise them about the 'stop, look and listen' rule. We pass under an old stone bridge that has a 10 foot 4 inch clearance, going where no RV can go.

We head out across the 'neck' of Maine, and into the backwoods, following the Kennebec River. The apple-pie order of the homes and villages of the coast give way to collections of old cars and improvised personal landfills at provincial homesteads carved into the trees. One homeowner has accumulated more than 30 power mowers, with no formal grass in sight.

We travel most of the day in the rain. And the rain in Maine falls mainly on the...moose. There are moose crossing signs everywhere, at least one every 5 miles across the width of the state. Fortunately, we didn't 'run into any'.

Tonight we are as far north as we will go on this trip, and have made the big left turn towards the West and home.

Running Odometer: 7078
States: Maine Total: 24
Countries :2

Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts to Bar Harbor, Maine

We are doing what we came to do...driving scenic highways with the top down and drinking in the views. This was a perfect day and the perfect terrain to further our goal. The foliage and the crisp freshness of the air feels more familiar and more like home; perhaps it's because Maine and the state of Washington are the northern bookends of our country. 
Small harbor towns, trucks on the roadside selling lobster, scallops, clams and crab, white tips of church steeples peeking above the tree tops, (another church, another steeple), antique shops, moose habitat, and blueberry fields; Maine lives up to its reputation.
Wiscasset calls itself "the prettiest little village" in Maine, and we won't argue.
We stopped in Portland to visit the old port section of the city. Some of the streets are still cobbled, the buildings are quaint, and the harbor is busy. We found a dock-side restaurant, sat under an umbrella and enjoyed.

Chowdah for lunch, lobstah for dinner.

Running Odometer: 6760
States:  Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Maine  Total: 24

Chicopee Falls and Springfield, Massachusetts

FAMILY.  Today we experienced the unique love and care of a special group of people. To Claire, age 87,  a gracious lady who can talk books and give perspective on possible travel stops,  to Katie, age 8, who had us all doing math problems and listening to her read expressively (and way beyond her second grade level), to Erin and Maryellen who cooked a delicious feast, to Frank who worked all night and still came to dinner, to Tommy who drove for two hours to see everyone, to Sandy who shared her home with us for the night (and served the perfect breakfast), we say thank you so much. This is the Massachusetts contingent of the Bresnahan clan, and the genealogy proves true. An exceptional lineage.
We left replete with travel tips and good advice and refortified by home cooking and clean laundry!

Running Odometer: 6360
States: Massachusetts  Total: 22

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania to Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts

A quick stop to connect with another moment in more recent history before we leave the city of brotherly love is the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where Rocky Balboa hangs out in statue form at the foot of those long laborious stairs we remember from the movie. The Rock is standing with fists raised in triumph. He should have quit while he was a winner and not bothered with the sequels.

Valley Forge is pastoral and serene this morning; in stark contrast to the winter encampment of George and his 12,000 Continental Army troops that took place here in 1777-78. Canada Geese are enjoying a pond, a woodpecker is beating out a rhythm, the sun shines, and green is the pervasive color. The army lived here in severe winter conditions for six months in small cramped (12 to a hut) log huts constructed by the men. They persevered to march off in pursuit of the British having survived a test of will and commitment.

Following along after George and his army, we crossed the Delaware....via a toll bridge, and landed on the Jersey shore where we encountered, not the British Army, but many miles of "crazy". We skirted New York City, but even at this distance we could feel the impact of this enormous city. We surfed through 12 lanes of fast moving traffic, underpasses, overpasses, criss-crossing and swooping, each segment following its own twisting path. Planes, with landing gear down,  flew overhead at seemingly eye-level as they neared touch down. Absolute, organized, chaos. The New York skyline was visible in the distance with the Empire State Building still holding dominance. We crossed the GWB...the George Washington Bridge... spanning the Hudson River, and officially touched the isle of Manhattan before we were swept through this mill race and back onto the semi-sanity of  I-95.

In Hartford, we stopped to pay a visit to Samuel Clemens, or at least his memory, and to discover that his next door neighbor was Harriet Beecher Stowe. Some lively over the fence discussions, no doubt. His home was designed by an architect who's forte was cathedrals, and that influence is very evident in the magnificent red brick mansion. This is where Clemens was most prolific in his writing and it is interesting to see how he 'disciplined' himself to focus on the task by positioning his desk in a corner away from all windows, with his back to the billiards table.

Last stop, the haven of Chicopee Falls, and Jim's cousins, Sandy and Mary Ellen.

Running Odometer: 6320
States: Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts  Total: 22

Philadelphia

We were dorks. Wearing round red CD players around our necks and ear plugs in our ears we followed the audio tour of historic Philadelphia. We stood in front of buildings or sat on a convenient bench and listened to stories of bygone days, most of which we'd first heard in elementary school. The people are American heroes, the places, icons of American lore. These documents and deeds, men and women, are the foundations of our patriotism. Today was a reminder of what it means to live in this country, where it started and why and what it took to make it all possible. When in the course of human events...

Free to be dorks and fortunate to have today's inspirational reminder.

Running Odometer: 6020
States: Pennsylvania  Total: 18

Virginia Beach, Virginia to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Early this morning Virginia Beach was being groomed by a beach Zamboni...a small John Deere tractor pulling a device that lifted litter and smoothed the sand in a single pass. We walked (part of) the three mile beach promenade before we got into the car for the day's adventures.

We drove the Hampton Roads area, which kept us on the coast and kept us island hopping. As a matter of fact, we traveled over and under water, in the car! The Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel is over 17 miles long and includes two tunnel segments each one mile long. Viewed from above, the bridge portion disappears under water, then reemerges, then disappears again and finally pops up once more. Huge container ships steam across the bay between bridge segments and tough looking military coastal patrol craft glide across the open channel at half hour intervals. It's all reminiscent of the BART tunnel and the Chunnel, but is somewhat more dramatic because the roadway appears to vanish; nose diving into the bay.

The mouth of Chesapeake Bay was the site of the battle of the Monitor and the Merrimack during the Civil War and where German U-boats sank the SS Tiger in 1942 during World War II.

We got a head start on historic Philadelphia with a tour of Independence Hall and a visit to the Liberty Bell. We're refreshing our history lessons and brushing elbows with the ghosts of the Founding Fathers.

And finally, a visit to South Street for a Philly cheese steak, with Whiz.

Congratulations to KC, Valedictorian of the Masters of Public Affairs Program at Sciences Po!

Running Odometer: 6020
States: Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania  Total: 18

Myrtle Beach, South Carolina to Virginia Beach, Virginia

Today, we drove the Outer Banks, a string of islands off the coast of North Carolina, through towns so small the GPS didn't recognize them.

These barrier islands protect the intra-coastal waterways, (which consist of rivers, inlets, canals, and sloughs),  from the open ocean. There are several long beautifully sculpted bridges that connect islands, and there is also a ferry system. We completely flunked ferries. We mis-timed the first one and drove right past the landing for the second one. Oh well, it's not exactly the Washington State ferry system. The boats hold 28 cars, run only a few times a day, and take 2 1/2 hours to cross the longer channels which were looking pretty choppy today.

Unfortunately, the Bodie Island lighthouse was swathed in scaffolding (and it looks like it may be undercover for quite some time). It was like arriving at the Guggenheim in Bilbao to find Jeff Koons' 'puppy' caged in construction frameworks....which did happen to us last November. Oh well, once again.

As a wonderful consolation prize, the medians of the highway were strewn with ribbons of a lacy blue wild flower which alternated with broad streams of yellow blooms. Maybe the blues were gentian, not sure since we were moving a little too quickly (ahem) for plant identification. Another lovely sight were the homes whose entire yards had been given over to pink or lavender phlox. You gotta have a wide, deep porch, and you gotta have several high backed rockers sitting on it, and a few pillars supporting the porch roof are an added bonus. There is a definite 'look' to homes in North Carolina. They are stately, well-kept and very traditional.

Kitty Hawk is in the Outer Banks, and there is a national park chronicling the accomplishments of the Wright brothers in nearby Kill Devil Hills. We walked the field where Wilbur and Orville flew and where there are stone markers indicating  the length of each of the first four flights at 120 feet, 175 feet, 200 feet and 852 feet, (that flight lasted 59 seconds).

Congratulations to Lesley, Bloomsday finisher!

Running Odometer: 5738
States: South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia  Total: 15

Daytona Beach, Florida to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

Last night we drove into Daytona/Daytona Beach and were bowled away by the sheer size of the Daytona Speedway facility. This is a big deal. I guess the rest of the world already knew that. It was a revelation to me. And then as we neared the beach, a huge neon arc hung across the sky stating: "World's Most Famous Beach", and yes, since the grand-daddy of Nascar races takes place right next door, you can drive on this beach. 

This morning we walked the beach walk accompanied by a battalion of brown pelicans flying in sloppy formation. 

As we headed up the Palm Coast we passed fruit stands touting fresh Florida citrus. We couldn't resist a bag of sweet deep orange tangerines to eat in the car.

We drove through the Georgia Sea Islands over long arching bridges, and stopped on Jekyll Island. In the late 1800's a group of millionaires (including the Morgans, Rockefellers and Vanderbilts), bought the entire island and built summer homes there. They arrived in their yachts, as the island was only accessible by water in those days. They called themselves the Jekyll Island Club and combined efforts to build a spectacular "clubhouse." It's an uber mansion complete with turret. The grounds are studded with live oak trees draped with flowing sheets of Spanish moss.Their club lasted 54 years until World War II intervened.

We passed a sign for a terrapin crossing with instructions to stop and assist the turtle across the road in the direction it was going. Very critical.

We took an off-freeway route through rural Georgia, passing Darien a town established in 1736, a multicolored striped big-top with a sign announcing a tent revival, and the smallest church in America. The church is 10 feet by 15 feet and holds exactly 12 chairs.

Running Odometer: 5285

States: Florida, Georgia, South Carolina  Total: 14

Key West, Florida to Daytona Beach, Florida

This morning we made a wide U turn and started heading north.

We didn't get far, before we turned into Everglades National Park. The creatures who live here are not shy. An everglades kite with a wing span as wide as our car swooped over our heads as we turned into the "river of grass". We drove by "panther crossing" signs but weren't fortunate enough to see one. The Florida panther is endangered and they estimate only 10 are left in the park. Instead, at different points, we passed a large turtle, a wood stork, a vulture, and several ibis meandering or posing alongside the roadway.

We walked the Anhinga Trail, an elevated boardwalk bordering a fresh water sawgrass marsh. The trail is named for the anhinga, a bird that swims underwater to catch fish to eat. The bird then sits in the sun with wings unfurled to allow its feathers to dry. We saw several and got close enough to see that the anhinga is a green-eyed bird.

As we walked, we could hear what sounded like a bullfrog chorus, but more guttural and clipped. It was the alligators "talking". They keep up a pretty continuous chatter. You can't always see them, but you know they're close by. I was grateful for the boardwalk. In one spot there were 20 alligators, visible and sunning themselves. As we walked back to the car one big fella had found a sunny spot right next to the path....so much for the boardwalk!

We also walked the boardwalks at the Pahayokee Overlook and the Mahogany Hammock. One provided a  view of the endless 'grass' and the other a tour of an 'island' of lush trees and undergrowth. There were groves of bald cypress trees which have actual bald spots because they drop needles here and there when they need to conserve water.

We drove to the end of the pavement, over Rock Reef Pass, (elevation 3 feet), to the visitor's center in Flamingo. This is where the 99 mile water trail into the glades begins. A kayak or canoe will get you to elevated platforms along the route to use as campsites as you explore. Anyone interested?

A key lime milkshake at a fresh fruit stand is the last stop before we head for Daytona Beach.
Running Odometer: 4820
States: Florida  Total: 14

Key West, Florida

Key West is 90 miles from Cuba, so that puts us closer to Castro's island than the US mainland. The highest point here is 18 feet above sea level. Shops are full of souvenirs, shot glasses and beachwear. The uniform is shorts, t-shirts and flip flops. The look is rumpled and comfy. Happy hour is from 7-8AM. In other words, just relax!

There are chickens roaming around everywhere. When cock fighting was outlawed, the roosters were set free, and are now protected by law against harm or harassment.

Ernest Hemingway's house is here. It's a home you could move right into and live happily ever after. Beautiful arched windows, covered verandas shaded by African tulip trees, and his second wife's chandelier collection from Paris installed in every room, including the bathrooms. There are 47 cats living on the property, all descended from Hemingway's cat, Snowball, (who had 6 toes). They have the run of the house and garden. We found two having a nap on Hemingway's bed.

Harry Truman, 'the uncommon, common man', came to Key West for rest and vacation. His home here is called The Little White House. It has been used by Kennedy, Eisenhower, Carter and Clinton and is still available for presidential retreats. Truman's desk with "The Buck Stops Here" sign is in a corner of the living room.

The Key West winery bottles a Key Lime Wine and another called Hurricane. We shipped a case home, so stop by for a sip or two.

In the evening, Key West celebrates sunset at the dock near Mallory Square. The square fills with street performers and their audience is in full party mode. Our favorite: Dominique, the cat man and his cat circus!

Enjoyed Royal Reds, a large sweet shrimp for lunch, with key lime pie for dessert...and a cheeseburger in paradise at Jimmy Buffet's restaurant for dinner. His food is unremarkable, but his music is the best!

Running Odometer: 4248
States: Florida Total: 14

Ocala, Florida to Key West, Florida

The GPS gets to take the day off. The highway is straight and flat all day long, heading due south. At the end of this day's drive we will be as far from home as we can possibly drive and still be in the US.

Our route, on the Everglades Parkway,  takes us across the 720,000 acre Cypress Swamp in the Big Cypress National Preserve. This is known as Alligator Alley. The road is lined with an 8 foot wire fence topped with barbed wire. Perhaps to protect the swamp residents from fast moving cars. We decide the fence is an "alligate". We have the top down and the sounds we hear are reminiscent of the jungle ride at Disneyland; bird calls and whatever else.

One of the goals of this trip is to drive the overseas highway to Key West, and today's the day. The road travels from key to key via bridges that take us out into the Florida Bay. We fly along with water on both sides. The bridge at Marathon Key is seven miles long, probably the most spectacular stretch on the route. We stop at Bahia Honda State Park on Bahia Honda Key. This is a 524 acre park shaded by gumbo limbo trees. It boasts a beach that is ranked as one of the most beautiful in the US. It also holds the remains of a bridge that was once a part of "Flagler's Folly". In 1905 Henry Flagler built a railroad to Key West along the route that is now US Highway 1. His railway was destroyed by a hurricane in 1935, but his idea was the inspiration for the highway we're on today.

Two F22 Tomcats flew over at about 500 feet as we reached Key West. Quite the welcome.

Happy Birthday to Bonnie!

Running Odometer:4238
States: Florida  Total: 14

Asheville, North Carolina to Ocala, Florida

Asheville
Nashville
Knoxville
Cooksville
Hendersonville
Statesville
Greenville
Carnesville
Gainesville
I could go on.....there seems to be a theme here.

We made a pledge before we left to avoid fast food on this trip. But this morning we made an exception for Bojangle's, the Southern version of McDonald's. Their slogan "gottawannaneedagettahava" trips off the tongue. The attraction is the hot fresh buttermilk biscuits they serve with every order. We're back on the wagon, but falling off tasted real good.

About 20 miles east of Atlanta is a memorial to the Confederacy in Stone Mountain Park. The mountain is a huge glob of granite that looks like a giant tossed his chewing gum into the deciduous forest. The granite runs ten miles deep into the earth. On one side is a 3 acre bas-relief carving of Stonewall Jackson, Robert E. Lee, and Jefferson Davis on horseback. There is a sky-ride to the mountain top with a good view of the carving on the way up (and down). They don't mention it at the park, but Stone Mountain has been a rallying point for the KKK. Martin Luther King Jr.'s I Have a Dream speech  includes the line:"let freedom ring from Stone Mountain in Georgia".

Of our three mountain carvings we decide Mount Rushmore is the most dramatic. Crazy Horse and Stone Mountain are both larger, but their mountainsides dwarf them.

We pass a dirty dump truck on the highway with "Jesus Won't Dump You" painted across the back.

When we step out of the car in Ocala we know we're in Florida because we can feel the air even though it isn't moving. It wraps around us like a warm wash cloth.

Running Odometer: 3718
States: North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida  Total:14

Asheville, North Carolina

Our timing is just a little off. Evidently, President Obama and First Lady Michelle were in Asheville on Friday and Saturday. I'm truly sorry we missed them, hoping maybe they'll show up in the Keys.

The Biltmore Estate occupied our day.  The approach road from the gatehouse to the main house is three miles long. The house is reminiscent of a French chateau and includes 8000 acres of surrounding forests and meadows. Indeed, it is the largest privately-owned home in America. Yesterday we were peeking into one room slave shanties where a family of ten lived, today we walked through a home of 250 rooms occupied by a family of three, (and this is just the summer house).

In the 75 acres of formal gardens the azaleas were showing off. They performed "formally" and continued on into the more rustic areas where their blooms drifted into the green backgrounds to add surprises of colors.

Frederick Law Olmsted designed the Biltmore gardens and grounds. He's also responsible for New York's Central Park. Most significant for us is his involvement in designing several of Spokane's most beautiful parks, including Manito.

Running Odometer: 1324
States: North Carolina  Total:  11

Nashville, Tennessee to Asheville, North Carolina

"Oh what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day. I've got a beautiful feeling, everything's going my way" The sun is shining, no rain, no tornadoes, and not a deer in sight.


Today was Nashville to Asheville. There's an old family story about Jenny and Jim driving in the South and Jenny trying to tell Jim which exit to take. The choices were Nashville and Asheville. She said Nashville, he thought she said Asheville and they went back and forth like Laurel and Hardy, until they were shouting at each other. Today it was good for a laugh.


We stopped at the Hermitage, the 1100 acre plantation of Andrew Jackson. The mansion, his early log cabin home, the formal garden, the remains of the slave quarters and his tomb are all there. We took a horse-drawn wagon ride around the grounds and toured the mansion and gardens. Old Hickory, apparently was a contradictory personality. James Parton, a Jackson biographer, calls him a democratic aristocrat, an urbane savage, an atrocious saint. The Cherokee call him the devil because of his responsibility for the Trail of Tears. 
The rural acreage is lush with grass and trees and the formal garden is supposedly just the way his wife left it.
Bed after bed of peonies in Rachel's garden were covered in buds and just about to burst. They must make a glorious display.

We drove through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park and along the Blue Ridge Parkway. where we stopped twice to observe black bears in the woods. One was foraging in the underbrush, the other was  stretched out languorously on a tree limb high above, indifferently looking down at those looking up at him. The Smoky Mountains are covered in deciduous forest. The "mountains" roll and fold in on each other while the sun plays on them highlighting the peaks and deepening the pleats. 


We know we're still in the USA, but Jim says he might as well be in France, because they are speaking a different language here, and Southern drivers do not observe the speed limits. They're all stock car racers. 
And just what is frog jam? Evidently, it's made of figs, raspberries, oranges and ginger.


Running Odometer Total: 3100
States Today: Tennessee, North Carolina Total: 11

Mt Vernon, Illinois to Nashville, Tennessee

We put all efforts into getting our windshield replaced, and it took all day and both of us on two phones trying to get Safeco to follow through on emergency service. We had to locate a dealership which had the correct piece of glass, because Safeco wanted us to order it from one of their partner glass shops and wait for it to arrive. Not happening. Then we needed someone to install it, because the glass shop connected to the dealership is not open on Saturday. The Safeco shop wouldn't do the labor if we didn't buy the glass from them, and they didn't have it in stock. Finally, we found a free-lancer who wanted the work. He came to the dealership and happily and energetically installed the new windshield. Yes, this is a commercial for Safeco and their subsidiary, Safelite. Happy to give them the review they deserve.

We celebrated our windshield victory with a trip to the Grand Ole Opry. The ghosts of Minnie Pearl and Ernie Tubbs, the Texas Troubadour, were present in this venerated theater. We listened to toe-tappin' music from old timers like Joe Diffie and Jeannie Seely and then out walked Loretta Lynn, the coal miner's daughter. She was a complete surprise. Still a lovely lady, still a clear strong voice and a vision in pink velvet. Another highlight was watching the cloggers. The dancing is similar to Irish step dancing, done with high energy and precision.

Listening to tornado warnings on TV. I may get my funnel cloud yet. Need to be careful what I wish for...don't want to end up in Oz.

Odometer Running Total:  2764
States: Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee Total: 10

Happy Housewarming to Katie!

Des Moines, Iowa to Mt Vernon, Illinois

Free car wash today. It rained most of the day.

A significant milestone was crossing the Mississippi River, the Father of Waters.  It looks big, brawny and beautiful, still rolling along.

We enjoyed the Lincoln Presidential Library in Springfield. It is outstanding, rather like a Disney production, with well developed presentations and so much to learn, even after you think you'd heard and read it all. It renewed my admiration for this man who was so humble and eloquent. He acted on what he believed to be right and his actions made such a difference. His quote, "He has the right to criticize who has the heart to help" is a small lesson to ponder.

We stopped to admire the Dana-Thomas house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. A true marvel of innovation. It looks contemporary and even futuristic yet was conceived and built in 1902.

Tornado warnings were issued for southern Iowa and Missouri and we were detoured south away from Davenport. I spent the day hoping to catch a glimpse, (just a glimpse), of a funnel cloud. Instead, just as we were nearing our destination for the night, a deer jumped out and hit us. Thanks to Jim's great reflexes and driving ability we were unscathed. The car, however, is a mess. We'll spend tomorrow looking for a new windshield and side mirror.
It's all part of the adventure.

Happy Birthday to Jim/Brez/Dad/CB/Big Daddy/Brokaw/Grandpa/Waldie/TM!

Running Odometer: 2490
States: Iowa, Illinois  Total: 8

Sioux Falls, South Dakota to Des Moines, Iowa

"Every day is earth day"

Another day of empty. The scenery is earth and sky as we leave South Dakota and criss-cross south along the western Iowa border following the Missouri River; reversing the route of Lewis and Clark.  We have no scheduled stops. At a rest area our attention is captured by a picture of the Desoto National Wildlife Refuge in the Missouri Valley. It's on the way, so we leave the freeway, put the top down and putter through this small paradise of shade trees and wetlands listening to the different voices of a variety of birds and choruses of bullfrogs.

Tonight is a special event for Jim. Tomorrow is his birthday and he's going to celebrate this evening with Huey Lewis. We scored a (as in one) ticket to this sold out concert in Altoona. He'll be in the 'Heart of Rock and Roll' tonight and back on the road tomorrow.

Running Odometer: 1973
States: South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa  Total: 7

Sheridan, Wyoming to Sioux Falls, South Dakota

The roaming bison gave way to grazing cattle on the wide open prairies of Wyoming and South Dakota. There are times when I see developers taking beautiful tracts of land and destroying them with acres of cookie-cutter houses and feel saddened to see the open places disappear. Well, Wyoming is in no danger of losing its openness, nor is South Dakota. Oh no. There seems to be plenty...ad infinitum. Nice.

We drove past an open-pit coal mine in full operation, (using conveyor systems like the ones Jake designs) and then watched trains over 100 cars long leaving the plant filled with coal while equally long empty trains chugged back for refills. The trains are so long and so heavy they all had an engine pulling one end and another pushing at the other end. We realized the trains were going to Newcastle, Wyoming. Hmmm, coal to Newcastle?

We are in the land of the Lakota and the Sioux. The Crazy Horse Memorial, being carved and blasted into a mountainside has been "under construction" since 1948. The progress seems slow until we reflect on the sheer magnitude of the project. When completed it will be five times larger than Mount Rushmore.

We hadn't planned on visiting Mount Rushmore, because we've been there, but we were so close we decided to stop by. We walked the Presidential Trail which took us closer to and directly below the carvings with a view directly up Jefferson's nostrils. A totally new perspective. I noticed a prominent slab of rock next to Lincoln that seems to be a perfect site for another presidential head. It seems an ideal spot for the addition of our first black president. Just a prediction.

Badlands National Park, or Les Mauvaises Terres as the French explorers named them offered several interesting walks. The best was the Notch Trail taking us up a vertical ladder to some rocky ledges that delivered spectacular views of the very distinctive, craggy rock formations.  My paranoia kept me from loving the hike. The area is posted with warnings for rattlesnakes. Just too hard to worry about a snake encounter and enjoy the scenery at the same time. We saw mountain sheep, deer, and adorable bunny rabbits which did help assuaged the snake concern.

Driving the freeway we encountered a Road Runner. The feathered kind. Good omen.

Congratulations to Mary, KSPS Volunteer of the Year!

Odometer Running Total: 1643
States: Wyoming, South Dakota Total: 5

West Yellowstone to Sheridan, Wyoming

"See the world. It's more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories." Rudyard Kipling

Yellowstone National Park was our destination, and we spent the whole of our day enjoying it. We awoke to a wolf saluting the morning from deep within the park. Its whooping cry was motivation for getting up and getting out the door. At the park gates, we used our National Parks senior pass for the first time, (lifetime fee $10), which waived our $25 entrance fee. What a great deal!

There were pros and cons to visiting the park in April. Many of the roads are still closed because of snow. And that included the one we had hoped to take into Wyoming. Instead, we had to take the north exit back into Montana which added some miles to our day. But, on the positive side we had a private showing of an Old Faithful eruption at 9:30 AM and very few cars on roads which are ordinarily bumper to bumper.

The steam vents were spewing into the cool, crisp air, and they were fuller and more robust than in the summer months. The hot water pools were bubbling and clear, reflecting the blue of the sky. The taste and smell of sulphur came and went. We had a picnic overlooking a waterfall which was roaring with spring runoff.

There were large bison herds in several places, flowing across the road. We did some herding with the Boxster, edging them out of the way so we could pass. One particularly big and beautiful beast could have posed for the nickel.

There were elk herds, and a type of goat we couldn't identify. The highlight was coming around a corner and seeing a gray wolf standing in the road waiting for us with a disdainful stare: "you will stop for pedestrians". Once he had our attention, he loped off without posing for a photo.

We exited the park through the historic Roosevelt Arch, the cornerstone of which was laid by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1903. "For the benefit and enjoyment of the people" is inscribed across the top. Thank you, Mr. President, for your foresight.

We definitely saw the buffalo roaming and a few antelope playing. There was though, a discouraging word, .over the size of my suitcase.

Happy Birthday to Sean!

Odometer Running Total: 1001
States: Montana, Wyoming  Total: 4